09 November 2009

Tastings and 100 pointers


This past weekend I had the pleasure of attending a wine tasting in Danville for my uncle's birthday. He is an avid wine collector, ordering and sharing cases upon cases with my dad. Joel Baecker and his wife Naomi from Pizza Politana created woodfired Neapolitan pizzas that were to die for - fig and goat cheese, mushroom and gremolita, margarita, pepperoni, and more. They came in to a close tie with Picco's Pizzeria in Larkspur. My aunt also made A16's Monday Meatballs, a Nate Appleman creation that transcends all other meatball wannabes.

I started out my night with a 2000 Copain pinot, Anderson Valley. A pretty good start to my night. And then a 2007 L'Ecole Walla Walla Valey Syrah came out. Dark and spicy fruit on the nose until halfway through when the body opens up and reveals the amount of fruitiness! Much more like a Californian wine. The back end finished with spice and fruit, a perfect balance. Behrens and Hitchcock goldenrod label was opened. And then, the holy of holies was brought out - a 2004 Marcassin "Three Sisters Vineyard" Sonoma Coast Pinot. Marcassin is a small boutique winery owned by HELEN TURLEY and her husband John. It's pretty much gold - only 2,500 cases are made each year.

The tasting eventually started, consisting of 4 flights.

Flight 1:
2007 Ceritas - Porter Bass Vineyards
2007 River-Marie - Thieriot Vineyard
2007 Aubert - Ritchie Vineyard
If it is not obvious, these were all chardonnays. I've always been partial to red wine, being weened onto in at such a young age. But I was blown away at the flavors in these chardonnays! The Rivers-Marie was my favorite; some oak, some vanilla, mild acidity but not completely absent. Reminiscent of a sugar cookie. The Aubert was fruity - pineapple, nectarine. The Ceritas was sultry, with only a hint of citrus.

Flight 2:
2006 August West - Graham Family Vineyard
2006 Sandler - Sonoma Coast
2006 Freeman - Akiko's Reserve
These were the pinots, my favorite bunch. All three of these are made by Ed Kurtzman; this is more of a story about vineyard location. I've grown up with the Freeman from Sonoma Coast; it's a standard. The August West from the Russian River Valley was new - color like a syrah but flavor of spice. The Sandler though lacked an elegant finish.

Flight 3:
1995 St. Clement - Oroppas
1997 Plumpjack - Reserve
1999 Araujo - Eisele Vineyard
This flight was the cabernet flight. Bold, courageous, and lacking the elegance of a pinot. You either like them or hate them. I've had the Araujo before, a classic cabernet. Dense, packed with fruit, almost to the point of being done, but finishing with medium tannins. The Plumpjack had oak, sweet spice, and even some chocolate. The Oroppas was full of black pepper, berry, and chocolate.

Flight 4:
2004 Outpost - Petite Sirah, "The Other"
2004 Corte Riva - Petite Sirah
2004 Foley - Petite Sirah
I have had each of these wines before - they've all had their time and place in our cellar. I am not a huge petite syrah fan, although we make it. The Outpost had hickory and oak in it - we finished off the night with it. The Corte Riva is a favorite of mine - a nightly ritual at home. Deep flavoring of cherries and licorice. The Robert Foley was huge in body and flavor; mountain fruit, licorice, and tannic at the end.



After the tasting, I had 2 of the most memorable wines I will ever be lucky enough to drink. The first was a 1964 Giacomo Conterno Barolo from Italy. Such an experience. The color and smell are almost revealing of a bourbon, until you take a sip and the expected burn is elegance and class. Earthy and fruity all in one with soft tannins. The second was the masterpiece. a 100 point Buller & Son Calliope Tokay (Muscat). Deep amber, dense body. Glorious.


In all, 34 bottles were open and finished. Complete with good food, chocolate parings, and dessert. Amazing night. Robert Parker would be proud.

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